Making Wet Wax Jackets
HI Frank ,
Im part of a very small team who have relaunched Yarmouth Oilskins , a heritage clothing brand est 1898 making workwear in our very small factory in Great Yarmouth , the same factory we've been sewing in for over 100 years !
We successfully manufacture dry wax products , and want to resurrect the skills to sew wet wax , typically Barbour type products . But sadly the skills we once had to make this are no longer around.
Our factory manager Sharon has been there for 29 years , but she's never made wet wax fabric. Ideally we'd like some tips and support about how best to sew it , if we need to clean down machines , what sort of thread, needles . foot to use etc.
I'm not sure if you know much about making wax products - but I know that you have the knowledge about pretty much all sewing !
Were happy to pay you for your advice , or if we could set up a call with Sharon , just let me know what is best . I'll send some photos of the prototypes weve made and the archive jacket we're trying to recreate . Thanks Frank ,
Sophie
When Sewing Heavy & Light Waxed Cotton Fabrics.
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Waxed canvas is an incredibly durable, well-made and long-lasting hobby and bag fabric. It was originally used by sailors to waterproof and increase the performance of their sails.
Today, it's an animal-friendly alternative to leather for Bags, Backpacks, Tote and Duffle Bags, Briefcases, Outdoor Clothing and much more.
The best techniques for working with waxed canvas, tips and tricks for patterning, marking and sewing this popular fabric.
Our Waxed Canvas fabric is a heavy-duty dyed cotton fabric that is treated with a natural wax coating.
Both Light and Heavy fabrics have the same base 12-ounce cotton fabric.
The Light version is treated with a paraffin wax coating, which makes it lighter and slightly more flexible than the Heavy version, which features a beeswax coating and a stiffer initial feel.
Both fabrics soften up and wear beautifully with use.
Sewing With Waxed Canvas: What You Need to Know
We thoroughly tested our Waxed Canvas fabrics so we could learn all about this long-standing favorite among bag makers, hobby sewers and leatherworkers.
Loved for its durability, fantastic water and stain resistance, and rugged outdoorsy look, waxed canvas is a clear choice for handcrafted, artisanal DIY projects that have the look of high-end retail pieces.
With simple maintenance and care, your waxed canvas items will last a lifetime.
Do I need a special needle or thread for sewing Waxed Canvas?
No. A round point needle (sharp) size #16 or size #18 with a V-69 polyester thread, and a size #20 needle with a size V-92 thread, will work perfectly.
You'll want to use UV treated polyester thread instead of nylon for its excellent UV resistance. Waxed threads are prone to clogging the sewing needle eye.
Bonded UV resistant V-69 and V-92 polyester thread is ideal for canopies,outdoor covers and cushions,sails,canvas,leather and kites. Bonded, twisted continuous filament polyester with an anti-wicking finish.
This function prevents the capillary action of water taken up by the thread and penetrating a sewn seam, a prerequisite for water repellent seams.
Combining superior sewing performance with excellent UV and abrasion protection,anti-wick is specifically designed to provide resistance against harsh weather conditions and can withstand UV degradation in all outdoor applications that are exposed to marine water and sunlight.
Can a home sewing machine sew waxed canvas?
You can sew waxed canvas on a home machine.
We recommend using a #16 or #18 needle with V-69 thread, depending on what you're sewing.
What is it like to sew with Waxed Canvas?
Waxed canvas sews almost like regular marine canvas, except that the presser feet and feed dog will leave marks on the fabric.
But no need to worry, these marks can easily be removed after sewing.
Or you can leave them to enhance the fabric's weathered and worn-in look and appeal.
Does Waxed Canvas feel sticky or leave a residue?
After thoroughly testing the canvas and sewing several projects we found that no residue was left behind on either the sewing machine or our work surface. The fabric does not feel sticky, only slightly slippery.
Do I need specialty feet to sew waxed canvas?
Because of the wax coating on the canvas, no matter what kind of presser foot you use, the presser foot and feed dog will leave marks on the fabric.
We tested three types of presser feet and feed dogs and they all left marks on the fabric after sewing.
This is an unavoidable side effect of waxed canvas — but you shouldn't see this as a bad thing!
The marks left behind enhance the fabric's vintage and rugged appeal.
If you don't like the marks left from sewing, they are very easy to remove.
Keep reading to learn how to do this.
You can also decrease the upper foot pressure and that will reduce the number of marks left on the fabric.
What Stitch Length should I use to Sew Waxed Canvas?
You can use the same stitch length you would use for sewing marine canvas.
We recommend a 5-6mm stitch length.
How do I mark on Waxed Canvas for Patterning?
You don't need to use fabric markers or pencils to mark patterning and cut lines on waxed canvas.
Because the wax coating shows scratch marks beautifully, you can use a scratch awl to mark the fabric.
The waxed canvas scores easily with an awl making the use of a fabric pencil not required.
The score line is also easy to follow for cutting, hemming and matching up panels for sewing.
Will basting tape adhere to the Waxed Canvas?
Basting tape does not stick at all to the wax coating, so don't waste time and money applying basting tape.
Instead, you can use a scratch awl to score the fabric for making out patterns and seam allowances.
Once the fabric is folded and creased, it has a very good memory and will hold while you take it to the machine for sewing.
How do I remove Unwanted Marks and Scratches from Sewing?
Due to the nature of waxed canvas, the fabric will show scratches, wrinkles and marks from handling and working with the fabric.
This is one of the biggest assets of waxed canvas and the reason so many crafters and bag makers flock to the unique fabric.
We call this marking and crazing a "patina effect," and it adds to the fabric's legendary weathered look.
It's also the reason waxed canvas is a happy substitute for leather, as both materials beautify with age and use.
However, if you don't like the marks your waxed canvas accrued from patterning and sewing, they are easy enough to remove.
Simply hover and move a hair dryer on the "heat" setting over the fabric in a smooth motion.
Don't let the hair dryer stay on one spot for too long.
The heat from the hair dryer will soften the wax so you can easily rub out and smooth out the marks.
Other Tips for Working With Waxed Canvas
1. Just like leather, sewing pins will leave permanent holes in waxed canvas. A scratch awl works well to score and fold hems. We recommend using Wonder Clips when you're lining up secondary panels together for sewing.
2. Do not iron waxed canvas and never wash waxed canvas in a washing machine.
Waxed canvas should only be spot cleaned with the appropriate cleaning products.
3. If sewing a lot of waxed canvas, it's a good idea to clean your machine to prevent the wax from building up.
After every two waxed canvas projects, clean your needle, your sewing machine hook, and your presser feet and feed dog.
If you notice a lot of wax buildup on your needle after sewing, you can use rubbing alcohol to remove it.
4. Rewax your waxed canvas items once a year to maintain the water-resistant and stain-repelling properties.
5. Don't leave waxed canvas items in a car on a hot day.
The wax may warm up and could either melt or leave a waxy residue behind on your car's interior.
https://www.sailrite.com/sewing-waxed-canvas
We hope you've found these tips and tricks for sewing waxed canvas useful!
Comments and Responses:
1. It looks like the only difference between the light and heavy waxed canvases is the wax itself.
The light canvas has a paraffin based wax while the heavy canvas has a beeswax based wax.
Both light and heavy canvas are described as 12 oz. fabrics. Is this correct?
That's absolutely correct.
Both the Light and Heavy waxed canvas fabrics have the same 12 oz. canvas fabric base. The only difference is the wax coating.
2. What should I use to clean my sewing machine hook area after sewing waxed canvas?
Do I need some kind of solvent?
You won't have to worry about cleaning your machine unless you sew a lot of waxed canvas and can see residue on the hook.
When you get to the point that you have to clean it, an alcohol swab works really well or rubbing alcohol on a wipe.
Thank you for a prompt reply! I have another question--can you address the merits of light wax fabric vs heavy wax?
If I'm making casual handbags, which would be best?
It really boils down to two things. Water resistance and stiffness. The heavy is much stiffer and will retain its shape more than the light version.
Thank you all for your input. I'm checking out the Consew 206 RB-5 Wizcrafts suggested.
Do you happen to know the main difference between the Consew 206RB-5 and 225?
The Consew 225 is an old model it doesn't have reverse. The Consew 225 was a good deal the machine is like new the person never used it.
The Consew 206RB-5 is a very nice machine for canvas and light leather work.
